introduction
How does a chef born in New York City come
to be known as the Thai guy? It happened about 10 years ago after a
grueling 2 years starting the Picasso cafe restaurant training program
in Vancouver, British Columbia, for youth "at risk." My wife and I were
both ready for a sabbatical.
We pictured returning to Portugal and
Spain for a few months and poking around in the small fishing villages,
reliving fond memories, or maybe visiting the blue lagoons of the
Yucatan. We could stay in a palapa hut by the Caribbean and practice
cooking chicken in banana leaves while sipping the local Leon Negra dark
beer.
We were trying to figure out where we
could stay the longest before finances would force our return when our
friends Bob and Joann said, "Why not go somewhere you've never been?"
They had been staying in Southeast Asia every winter for years and told
stories of hotel rooms for 5 dollars and great meals for 75 cents, miles
of empty white sand beaches and warm tropical waters. It sounded too
good to be true, but they gave us their journal to read, an account of
their last trip to Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. That journal
changed our lives. It was a fascinating, hilarious peek at the
mysterious Orient and after reading about their saga, we booked two
seats to Bangkok and were off on our own adventure.
A decade later, after many Thai cooking courses, mentoring by Thai chefs
and more travels in Asia, I am still passionate about Thai cuisine and
feel the constant tug of the "kingdom of smiles" pulling me back.
a little history
Thai cookery is a cuisine that has
developed a rich complexity over many centuries. Thailand is unique in
Southeast Asia in that it is free of a colonial past, so the influences
on the cuisine occurred naturally, slowly and by choice. The Thai people
are always open to new culinary ideas and have adapted ingredients and
techniques from other cultures and made them an integral part of their
daily lives. The cuisine has been affected by neighbors in Vietnam,
Malaysia and Indonesia, but the three countries that have had the most
profound effect are China, India and Portugal.
The influence from China can be seen in
the use of the wok, stir-fry tools and ingredients such as soy sauce,
oyster sauce, tofu, sesame oil and noodles. Thai cooks found new ways to
use these products, and although all Thai noodle dishes are credited as
originating in China, the flavors in a dish like Paad Thai are something
you will not find in any other cuisine.
The threads leading back to India are
evident in Thai curries. Curry powder is not a spice but a blend of up
to 25 different dried spices. When Thais saw how Indian traders who
landed on the coasts prepared their curries, the cooks of the day took
that idea and created new dishes. They used the dried spices, but they
added fresh local ingredients, like lemon grass, shallots, garlic,
galanga and chilies. Instead of the yogurt common in Indian curries,
they used coconut milk to mellow the spices. A new Thai tradition was
born.
Many people are surprised to hear that
Portugal had a role to play in developing the flavors of Thai cuisine.
Chilies are a common ingredient in Thai food, but chilies did not grow
in Asia before the 1500s, when the Portuguese, after discovering chilies
in Africa, spread their use throughout the Asian world. The Thai people
had always had a spicy food tradition, but before sailors from Portugal
arrived, they used black, white and green peppercorns to spice up their
dishes. Another significant contribution from the Portuguese was the use
of sugar and eggs for desserts. This can be seen in a dessert like the
traditional coconut custard, which is based on the Portuguese Pudim Flan
(crème caramel).
Global traditions continue to influence
Thai cuisine. Many Thai chefs have had successful restaurants in the
West and have returned to Thailand with an understanding of Western
techniques and ingredients. This has resulted in a fusion of culinary
styles sometimes referred to as modern Thai cuisine. Many of the dishes
throughout the book fall into this category. No book about Thai food
could overlook the street vendors. Every city in Thailand has numerous
street vendors - Bangkok alone is said to have about 25,000. When a
person migrates from the countryside to a large urban area they often
sell food specialties from their village to support themselves.
Patronizing the street vendors is an excellent way to get an overview of
Thai regional cuisines. Many residents of large cities in Thailand never
cook at home because the street food is inexpensive and high quality.
The vendors usually stay in the same location and people in the
neighborhood become part of the family. This creates a village
atmosphere in the heart of a bustling city. Many of the recipes in this
book are versions of street food.
the philosophy of thai cuisine
Thai cuisine is an art form, rather than a
rigid set of rules. To succeed requires some understanding of the basic
techniques and practice. The goal is not to take a scientific approach
to measurements, but to allow room for personal creativity in the
cooking process.
I have heard Thai chefs say that cooking
is similar to meditation. You need calm and focus to create a perfect
meal. So relax and smile while you are in the kitchen.
The word most often used in Thailand to
describe the flavors in a traditional meal is harmony. Herbs, spices,
roots and aromatic leaves are carefully blended to enhance the natural
flavors and textures of the main ingredients.
Variety, texture and color are important
aspects of any Thai meal. Many texture and flavor contrasts, such as
soft and crunchy, and sweet, sour, bitter, salty and spicy (hot) are
typically included as elements in a meal.
Armed with this philosophical approach the
next step is choosing and using a recipe. Remember that a recipe is a
basic guideline; to get the most out of it, consider it merely a
jumping-off point. The most important piece of equipment in your kitchen
is your tasting spoon. Always taste your food as it cooks so you can
decide how to adjust the flavors.
Pick any traditional Thai dish and you
will find hundreds of versions of it in different homes and restaurants
throughout the country. This was one of the most fascinating discoveries
I made as I traveled the countryside, wheedling my way into people's
kitchens. Most cooks were eager to show me their own version of a dish,
always followed by a description of how an aunt makes it up north or how
mom makes it in the home village. I never tasted the same red coconut
curry in any two different homes. Thai people see this personal
interpretation and diversity as a positive thing. The basic premise is
that it's the ingredients and technique that make a Thai dish authentic,
not a particular recipe.
With this thought in mind, I suggest you
follow the measurements exactly the first time you make these recipes.
When the dish is finished, analyze the flavors. Was it too hot? Did it
have enough garlic for your taste? The next few times you make the
recipe continue to taste critically and make flavor adjustments.
Eventually you will reach the balance that is perfect for you. When this
has happened, you will have your own authentic recipe.
Taste is very subjective. No one else can
decide what tastes good to you, so be bold, experiment and give yourself
permission to enjoy your time in the kitchen. You will learn what you
don't like from making mistakes, but more often than not you will learn
what works for you. Some of the greatest recipes came about because a
cook tried something that was not in the rulebook. If you are willing to
have fun and experiment, your creative potential will be limitless.
the thai meal
Food in Thailand, as it is in France, is
not just for nourishment. Most Thais think of food as a subject of
incredible interest and endless discussion. It is art, history and a
reason to enjoy the company of friends.
Lunch in Thailand is often a simple affair
- fried rice or noodles. The evening meal, however, can be an elaborate
production.
Everyone at the table is served rice — the
foundation of every meal. The rest of the dishes are served, all at the
same time, on platters Each person takes a little food from each dish
and places it on their plate.
Thai people use only a tablespoon and a
fork at the table. The spoon is what people use to eat with and the fork
is used to push food onto the spoon. Knives are considered inappropriate
at the table. This stems from ancient times when knives were carried as
weapons. It would be impolite to use a weapon to eat with, so, as in
Chinese cuisine, food is prepared in bite-size pieces. If something
needs to be cut smaller at the table, the side of the spoon is used.
Thai people only use chopsticks to eat noodles.
When planning a menu, the two underlying
principles are using a variety of textures and using the full spectrum
of flavors: sweet, salty, bitter, spicy (hot) and sour. A typical meal
would include a clear soup, a curry, a deep-fried or stir- fried dish
and a spicy salad.
about the author
How did Nathan Hyam, a chef born in New York City, come
to be known as "the Thai Guy"? After combining his love of food and
teaching with his experience working as Head Chef-Instructor at the
Picasso Cafe, a restaurant-training program for youth at risk, Nathan
traded his apron for a suitcase and went on a sabbatical with his wife.
They found themselves in Thailand and quickly became immersed in the
scents and flavors of Thai cuisine. A decade later, after many Thai
cooking courses, mentoring by acclaimed Thai chefs, and more travels in
Asia, Nathan is one of the preeminent chefs in Vancouver specializing in
Thai cuisine. His popular cooking classes, peppered with tips on how to
replicate authentic Thai cuisine in Western kitchens, are the hottest
ticket in town.
new thai cuisine is his first
cookbook.
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