FROM THE KITCHEN OF SIBOYA BUNGALOWS

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KRUNG KAENG MASSAMAN (Thai Muslim curry paste)

You can make this curry paste two ways — either using the whole spices, roasting and grinding them (you will need a stout mortar and pestle for this) or by using the ground spices. In some areas it is easier to buy whole spices while in others one can only obtain ground spices, so I have tested this recipe using both forms. One is just as successful as the other, and the ground spices certainly require less effort.

Ingredients:
7-10 dried chilies or 2 teaspoons chili powder
2 tablespoons coriander seeds or ground coriander
1 teaspoon cumin or fennel seeds or ground fennel
2 teaspoons laos powder, optional
1 teaspoon shredded lemon grass or finely peeled lemon rind
5 whole cloves or i4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 stick cinnamon or 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
5 cardamom pods or Vi teaspoon ground cardamom
1 blade mace or Vi teaspoon ground mace
2 tablespoons oil
2 medium sized onions, finely sliced
5 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1/2 teaspoon dried shrimp paste (kapi)

Method:
--- Break the chilies, shake out the seeds, and roast them lightly in a dry pan. Pound in a mortar and pestle. Roast the coriander seeds until aromatic and dark brown, shaking pan frequently or stirring. Pound in a mortar until seeds are reduced to fine powder (if spices are pounded while hot they are easily pulverized). Roast cumin seeds until they crackle and start to pop, then grind to a powder. I have not suggested grinding them in a blender because the quantities are so small there is not enough for the blades to work on. Add laos and lemon rind to the ground spices. Parch the cloves, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and mace in a dry pan over low heat, shaking the pan. Separate the cinnamon into layers, it will roast more quickly. Grind all the spices in mortar and pestle to a fine powder and combine with the previously roasted and ground ingredients. Set aside.

--- Heat oil in a frying pan and on low heat fry sliced onions and garlic until soft and golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add dried shrimp paste and fry for a minute longer, crushing it in the oil with back of spoon. Put this fried mixture, when it has cooled slightly, into container of electric blender with lemon rind and blend to a paste. If necessary, add a little coconut milk or water to assist action of blender. Turn into a bowl and combine with dry ground spices. The curry paste is now ready to use.

--- If using ground spices, dry-roast the ground coriander and fennel over low heat, stirring constantly and taking care they do not burn. Roast until they turn a rich brown and have an aromatic smell. It is not necessary to roast the chili powder or the other ground spices.

Note: If a blender is not available, crush the onions and garlic as much as possible after they are cooked, combine with the spices and use in the same way.

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